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Dual Trailer Article 21st of December 2008 by Brad McDiarmid.

A bike trailer or Ute to get the bike(s) to the ride destination is a key piece of trail riding equipment. Some of us have more than one trailer, being a bike trailer and a general purpose trailer which is great if you have the storage space.
Needing something to get my bike to and from the rides I chose a trailer that was dual purpose. One that could be either a bike trailer or a standard 6x4 workhorse trailer.
Main reasons for this were:
•   6x4 trailers do not require registration in Victoria saving cost
•   Once I take the skids and ramp out I have a normal drop down front and rear tail gates 6x4 trailer.
•   The drop down front and rear gates mean it became an 8x4 trailer to carry longer loads which can also be loaded forward of the front gate over the A frame.
•   Only had to store one trailer
•   The trailer options I wanted to make were not expensive and available from manufacturers.

The picture below shows an example of a trailer from Dandy trailers www.dandytrailers.com.au, this is pretty good as a starting point, however there is always room for improvement as explained later in the article.

See Attached Picture, Standard

A standard offering:
•   Flexible three skid layout
•   Drop down front and back gates
•   Proper gate handles
•   Good robust wiring
•   Manufactured to Australian standards and compliance
•   Bike tie downs standard
•   Bike loading ramp standard
•   One bike skid standard
•   All bolts same head size 21mm wheel nuts, wheel spanner does all bolts and nuts.
•   Nuts for all skid bolts welded to the floor, underneath.
•   Hinged number plate

The Modifications chosen at time of manufacture:
1.   Higher than standard sides, so it carries loads better, e.g. soil and mulch
2.   Checker plate floor, for rigidity, robustness and longer life.
3.   Front Jockey wheel, easier to move and manage on your own.
4.   Spare tyre side mounted, for when you get the inevitable flat. This also means it is not on the A frame so the front gate can come fully down. Also if it’s on the LHS is a safer place to remove it from as passing cars go down the RHS when parked.
5.   Jerry can holder, for fuel, keeps the fuel smell out of the car or can be used for water container if camping.
6.   Second Skid, for your mates bike, best to travel to rides together in case of mishap or if necessary you have a place to recover another bike.
7.   Extra tie down points for bikes to safely hold them down on any road conditions.

 See Attached Pictures P1 and P2
 
The Modifications made later by my self:
1.   Cut off rear tailgate chain (last link at tailgate) so gate can swing fully down and replaced the link with a Carabina clips. This facilitates the rear ramp being correctly placed which requires the tailgate to be all the way down. Also means you can re-attach the tailgate back to normal as required via the chain and clip.
2.   Replaced tail lights and number plate light with LED version as the standard version fall apart on dirt roads, this can short out the electrical system and blow the cars fuse(s)
3.   Modified holes in skids for better fit, moving them forward and to the outside. This meant the bikes fitted better on the trailer both length and sideways. Note: With this standard trailer layout a full size dirt bike won’t fill where the skids are mounted at time of manufacture if you want to close the rear tailgate.
While you are at it place rear wheel tie down strap under the back end of the skid.
4.   Welded T bar across ramp bolt for hand operation, means I don’t need a spanner.
5.   Number plate made from letters and numbers at Bunning’s, although I think if you ask Vic Roads they will provide a number plate for the trailer, unsure if there is a fee associated.
 
 See Attached Picture P3

In hindsight better ideas at time of manufacture:
1.   Ensure tailgate hinges do not align with skid placement otherwise it is difficult to align the loading ramp with the skids on the trailer
2.   Longer ramp for easier loading and unloading is a good idea.
3.   Get both side skid bolt holes moved away from center towards sides as far as possible
 
See Attached Picture P4

Other considerations:
•   Off road version and suspension for towing it into the bush
•   Off road Treg trailer coupling for towing on rough tracks and undulating tracks especially for going over wash-aways.
•   Matching of tyres, wheel hubs and nuts to your 4WD so the spares are interchangeable.

Happy trails,

Brad

Gee Brad that's way to shiny for me!!

My trailer started off as a boat trailer and I just keep welding and bolting bits on.

I was fortunate to be able to start again as the old trailer died after 14 years. This one is over two years old and at close look it has plenty of stone chips and rust forming. As you say whatever "floats your boat" is fine!