Simpson Desert
the hard way or the easy way?

The initial concept for the adventure ride started in the year 2005. The people involved, types of motorbikes, starting point, routes to be taken constitutes a story in itself. Let's say it was one continuos and forever changing saga. In the end six riders and one back up 4wd completed the epic journey. Three Suzuki DR650's, three BMW R1200 GS's and one new Nissan Navara dual cab were the choice of outback fun. The following a daily account of a brilliant ride/drive.

Day 1, Saturday 1st July
Finally the day had come! The meeting point was at Mcdonalds Keilor North on the Calder Highway at 7.30am. We all had to ride a further 2km's past Mac's to find a crossing to arrive on the other side where it was situated. After the usual eats, coffee and banter we rode off at 8.30am as a group, destination Renmark 734km's from Melbourne. It started showering rain not long after our start and would persist for the whole day. Not only rain, also strong headwinds certainly made it tough riding for the DR's. The bikes loaded with saddlebags, top bags and camping gear (tent, sleeping bag, mini stove and food) top speed was about 100 to 110kmh if you were lucky. Three quarters extra movement of the throttle twist grip didn't achieve any more go.
Our first stop was at a general store in Marong, west of Bendigo. Ben consumed a pie to back up his Mcdonalds breakfast. Next stop at Wycheproof lunch for all, Ben dining on a chicken and rice dish.
The first episode of bike trouble happened here with Shanes swingarm chain wear guide broken at its rear mount. Fitted back in place with a few adjustments we were on our way to the next fuel and eats stop at Underbool. Can't remember what Ben ate this time. Eighty-six km's onwards we stop at the BP at Pinnaroo. Did Ben sneak in another snack? Then 105km's to Loxton where we stop in darkness for Shane to reattach his chain guide again. Finally arriving at Renmark at 7.30pm and staying at a motel. NB. Too many stops caused by us refuelling at different times. All fuel top ups at the same time would have helped.
 We all caught a taxi to the pub for tucker and a few ales. Matt was disappointed that the menu didn't include chicken parmigana. The poor guy felt cheated. Upon asking his wish was granted, a smile appearing back on his face. With eats finished and the bistro area shutting we moved on to the sport lounge bar where Ben decides to smash a full glass of alcohol by dropping it. What a waste! Falling asleep standing up tends to relax the muscles. He was totally knackered. Okay, day 1 completed, an early start planned for tomorrow and our first taste of dirt roads.

Day 2, Sunday 2nd
All up early except for Ben and Shane. Constant door knocking and verbal commentary from Steve led to a few grunts and a " too f…en!   early " scream. Apparently we should have changed to SA time that is half an hour later. What a piss poor excuse!
Heading north out of Renmark we started our first taste of dirt road/track which would last for many kilometres. Our first stop shortly after was at the "hat tree", covered in all different types and coloured hats obviously! The turn off to Danggali Conservation Park proved difficult to find. Riding up a small track led us to a fenced off dead end and the first motorcycle dropped for the trip. Strike one, for Matt and a BMW. This track wasn't easily traversed the extra loads on the rear of the bikes upsetting one's balance quite easily at low speeds. We rode up and back the main track trying to find the turn off depicted on the map to no avail. It was then decided to follow the track further towards Wentworth to find the next track available. After about 8km's the track we wanted appeared and what a find it was! Fast flowing, topped with a sandy top, winding in and out of tea-tree bush. Everyone delighted as we regrouped at Morgan Vale ruins. "It doesn't get any better than this," exclaimed Steve!  Those immortal words to be repeated many a time in the days ahead.
 Shane fixing his chain-guide again before taking off to the next stop at Yunta 134kms on. By now we were well behind schedule. So after a quick refuel of bikes, and stomachs ie. burgers, pies and hot chips off we went at a million miles an hour destination Arkaroola via Frome Downs 300kms down the track. This dirt highway helped up the average speed considerably. Shane and Denis flew past me flat out side by side so I counter attacked overtaking them at ___kmh with my middle digit in the air and nothing left in the big single cylinders artillery. Not long after, riding beside Denis, I leaned into a left-hand sweeper topped with loose gravel and both tyres didn't want to grip. Drifting wide still searching for adhesion I slammed into the side of a road white post marker before regaining control. No damage done to the bike or myself, the post coming off second best.
The Flinders Ranges appeared on our left in the distance a great sight to behold. Travelling now in the dark of the night the boys stopped next to a guy who was changing a flat tyre on his trailer when Matt pulls up cussing the unsighted big rock he slammed into just before. The result a flat front tyre and a big dent in his exhaust balance pipe. Now these Bm's have spoked wheels with tubeless tyres. The hole in the sidewall couldn't be plugged (we tried) and the tyre beads sit tight on the rims. No worries, just call BMW road assist, yeah right! Luckily the boys came equipped with a bead breaker and the strap on head spotlight. Dutifully fixed we continued on much slower to finally arrive at Arkaroola 50kms later around about 8pm. A few ales the next best option followed by fantastic meals in the resort restaurant. All of us still in our smelly riding gear lowering the tone and ambience of the meals area not to mention Denis's flowing commentary during eats.
We inquired about accommodation rather then pitch the tents and received a room with 4 beds and 2 people to sleep on the floor, all for $15 each. The room was part of a school camp building which had a back door into a large hall, set up as a marine education centre. Teaching kids about the sea in the middle of the rugged Flinders Ranges is a bit bazaar me thinks! Ben and Steve the non- recipients of a bed decided to sleep in the cold hall. Finding mattresses in a gutted room opposite, Steve found the hall kitchen for his resting place and Ben stayed in the hall. The only problem was we couldn't switch the lights off. They were powered by a day/night sensor switch. We couldn't find the mains so Ben smartly taped a small led key ring light to the hall switch giving it the impression it was daylight effectively switching the lights off.
Day 2, 600kms full of fun and excitement, the true adventure had just begun.




Day 3, Monday 3rd  
One of the staff at the resort in formed Ben of a shortcut to kick off the start of the days' journey. It involved a sign posted "no through road" opposite the airstrip saving us about 30kms. I believe it was only used by local tour operators. We traversed through dry rock creek beds, open plain areas changing from sand to red dirt to red rock. At approximately 150kms we arrived at the Strezelecki Track near Mt Hopeless. The surrounding landscape changed from flat plain to undulating small sand dunes as we travelled north. Montecollina bore was the next regroup, a small waterhole fed by an underground spring. Other travellers here informed us that there was no fuel available at our next planned fuel stop at Cameron Corner. This mean't missing the southern part of the Bore track, something we were all looking forward to as Peter had informed us it was a "must do". Changed plans meant travelling to Merty Merty, the Old Strezelecki track, across to the upper part of the Bore track to Innamincka and out to the Cullymurra waterhole. Stopping 99kms up the Strezelecki track turn off to Merty Merty we confirmed on two way radio from passing travellers that there was definitely no fuel at Cameron Corner. At this stop we must off seen at least 10 or more truck/road trains. Whilst travelling we had only seen one or two. The Old Strzelecki track itself was a bit more entertaining including oil well pumps visible along the way. Great riding next on the Bore track with sandy flowing bends and forever changing scenery, of sand, rock, open plains and red dunes, "it doesn't get any better than this".  
Not far before the end of the track Shane had stopped, out of fuel. Since I was the only person carrying spare fuel I rationed it out at just over 2 litres for him to make it to Innamincka. Shane not too pleased as he wanted the complete 5 litres available. Myself not too keen on this as I thought the BMW's may need what fuel was left to get them and us all to Innamincka. As it turned out Ben drained a litre from Denis and the others had just enough fuel. More bike troubles in the form of a broken and bent side rack on Shanes machine and the bottom chain guide in front of the sprocket broken off. Strapping the rack from one side over the top  to the other held it together. Then about 8kms out Shane stopped again with no fuel. I swear he did it just to get the remaining 3 litres of fuel.
The landscape now was undulating hills and red rock ground cover as far as the eye could see, rather barren. Then out of nowhere appeared a few buildings in the form of a general store, pub and toilet amenities that was Innamincka. Shane inquired about repair welding availability with no luck. Denis asked to buy a Desert Pass and was told none were available but come back in the morning and it would be possible. Overnight delivery, I most doubt it!
 All fuelled and ice cream snacks embellished it was time to meet up with Peter and Sarah our 4wd back up,15kms out at the Cullymurra waterhole. This water oasis out in the middle of nowhere had a hell of a lot of campers all along the waterside. Surrounded by gum trees it looked like a site on the Murray River. Pleased to find Peter and Sarah with a good campfire happening and greeted with an ice box full of liquid gold, beer. The mixture being Coopers pale ale and some VB's. It's amazing how generation x or is it y? feel it is beneath them to drink VB. That's okay because it meant more beer for the older more mature members of the group.
Peter cooked up a culinary delight of roast lamb and roast every type of vegetable possible. Condiments were gravy and mint jelly sauce followed by desert of cake topped with cream or custard. Outdoor dining of the highest order. And the taste, magnifico! Does it get any better than this?
Peter had travelled up via Broken Hill and Cameron Corner. Being aware of the fuel situation he left 3 full jerry cans at the corner store for us. This smart move backfired when we were alerted well before and as a consequence bypassed our original planned route.
The food and drink must have been too good for Ben as he fell asleep in front of the campfire. Highly interesting and funny because he was still sitting on his fold out stool leaning down with arms crossed on his knees and wearing the head torch with strobe light activated. Never before have we seen this sleeping position performed.
So another fantastic day of riding, approximately 480kms, completed.


Day 4, Tuesday 4th
Destination Birdsville distance 430kms.
The Metzeler Karoo front tyres on the bemmers of Ben and Matt had produced sidewall bulges something we needed to keep an eye on.
Back through Innamincka and the track north through the Sturt Stony Desert was very corrugated. Also there were plenty of sweeping sandy high speed corners keeping the fun factor high. After about 150kms we turned left onto the Cordillo Downs track and 36kms afterwards stop at what is/was the largest shearing shed in Australia. From 88 to120 stand(shearer) shed in its heyday all done by handshears. Cordillo Downs  is now a cattle station of 7000 Poll Hereford with 6 station staff over an area of 7800 square kms.
The surrounding area mostly gibber rock but as per the previous days it constantly changes from rock to sand to clay, and different coloured dunes, from flat to undulating, from plateaus to ranges, from no vegetation to saltbush, from treeless to tree lined dry creek beds. And I would like a dollar for every cattle grid crossed and floodways traversed along these outback tracks.
Further north we investigated the Cadelga ruins, another failed pastoral existence. The creek next to it still had water in a deep depression flanked by trees.
After this Ben and Shane were nearly wiped out by a 4wd. The vehicle rounded a bend on the track too quick and spun out of
control just in front of Ben. Then immediately starts to reverse back onto the track as Shane approached causing him to divert his course. Thankfully no-one injured.
The Birdsville Development road was the last turn off for the day. Basically a dirt highway 116 kms to our overnight stay at the caravan park.
Fuelling our bikes before setting up camp, Shanes tank reputedly took 35 litres, not bad for a 32 litre capacity tank. Behind the servo was the Birdsville auto shop. The proprieter, Theo a South Afrikan, told Shane and Denis to bring their bike racks in at 8am the following day to be repaired and strengthened.
Dinner and drinks that night at you guessed the pub. Good tucker and a good crowd of people attended. Present were a Desert Horizons motorcycle tour group, a bike group from Boltons and another private group of bike riders not to mention heaps of 4wd people. We didn't hit the grog too hard as the Simpson Desert crossing would require us to be in reasonable shape. A pity because the atmosphere for a good session at the pub was great.        


Day 5, Wednesday 5th
Breakfast and packing up of all our gear need not have happened so early as repairs to the racks took the entire morning. The tour guide from Desert Horizons spots the 1200 GS's  and talks to Steve and Matt about their chances of making the journey across the dunes. He thought it would be too difficult to ride these loaded monsters all the way. With this in mind Steve and Matt became even more doubtful of success. They repeatedly discussed plan B the alternate escape route of crossing via the Rig road. Much longer but a clay topped track for easier transportation unless wet. It was agreed by all that their progress would be monitored after the first 6 or 7 dunes. By then a clear indication off their capability to cross the Simpson would be assessed. Note that travelling from east to west meant riding up the steep sides of the dunes.
Three more jerry cans were bought and fuelled to replace the ones left at Cameron Corner. We feasted on $2 meat pies for lunch. I go back to the camp to find Shane fully packed and Denis just starting to pack. His clothes and gear strewn all over the place as if hit by a mini tornado. Finally, at 1205pm the group take off to cross the Simpson.
From Birdsville it is 40kms of easy track before the first dune, "big red", is reached. Shane rode up with ease then Ben on the beemer with no problems. Matt and Steve's attempt went well so down we go then the track turned right and travelled between the dunes for about 1km before turning left to face the second dune. With only Peter and Sarah in the 4wd and Denis beside me I look back to see the real "big red". The same dune as the first except at its highest point. Pointing it out to Denis we sat there not knowing what to do. All the other guys on the bikes were gone and being half a day behind schedule meant not enough time to play around on it. Damn it! Off we go catching up to Matt and Steve in no time. Denis rides on by while I sit back and observe the first of many troubled ascents for Matt. Steve doing better but still having difficult times. After helping push, shove and pick up the beemers there was no regroup at the 6th or 7th dune. Peter and Sarah in the loaded to the max. 4wd were climbing the dunes with ease and thoroughly enjoying themselves. Fatigue for Matt was setting in so the luggage on his top rack was removed to reduce sideways shimmy imparted on the bike by the sand and whoops. By about the 20km mark the regroup occurred. The question fired at us of "where have you been"? We've waited here for half an hour! Ah dur! Thanks for the early stop to see how everyone was going! It was too far in to the desert now to enact plan B without causing major time disruption. Matt had expended most of his available energy and there was 150kms left to reach our planned camping spot. Not a chance in hell of achieving. After a long rest we completely unloaded the beemer of all luggage as a last effort to enable Matt to complete the journey.
So guess what? The three amigos take off again without a care in the world. Meanwhile Matt was making better progress with less falls, still just capable of continuing. His guts and persistence fantastic under the circumstances.
Late in the day I crested a dune a little too fast to discover the drop on the other side steeper than expected. The end result being the front wheel down first and me flying over the handlebars. I was fine however my left -hand side saddlebag was torn from its mounting straps. The velcro attachment didn't pull apart, the actual webbing part of the straps ripped out from the bag. I waited for Peter to help me lift the bike up and he stored the bag for me. Even a loaded DR650 is difficult to pick up in sandy conditions.
The sun was now low on the horizon and with the glare and shaded upside of the dunes it became impossible to see until going down the other side. At about 5.30pm we stopped and set up camp 100 metres in from the track between the dunes. We had only travelled 95 kms from Birdsville.
With a campfire blazing away Peter cooked us another brilliant meal of Burmese chicken, basmati rice, peas, brocolli and carrot. Five star service under a million star sky. It doesn't get any better than this! Peter warned us not to leave any food out as dingoes would help themselves overnight. Sure enough in the morning all the tents, swags and the campfire had paw prints surrounding them.

Day 6, Thursday 6th    
How would we go today? Only one way to find out! We continued on the QAA line all travelling a bit better than the day before. Mind you I had another over the bars experience an almost carbon copy of the day before. To think I should have learnt from my previous encounter.
Sarah was doing most of the driving in the back up vehicle. Her first experience of this terrain and loving every minute of it. Regularly on the 2 way radio communicating with us and other 4wd's. If I get the story right one of the people in another 4wd commented on the fact of a young woman having control of the vehicle with Peter the passenger. Sarah's snappy reply was "tough chick for tough times". Boy, did this one-liner stick for the rest of the trip.
Next stop, Poeppels Corner where NT, QLD and SA borders meet. There are no boundary fences just a cement pole in place. The significance overwhelmed us, not! A relaxing lunch had and the next section, the start of the French Line was to be the toughest 40kms of the trip. Whilst the QAA line had clay pan between the dunes this area had deep sandy tracks with decent sized whoops which gave you no rest at all. Shane cleared off as per usual and made it to the Knolls track intersection in one hour. It took the rest of us three and a half hours to complete. Why you may ask? Well a certain DR rider with the name of Denis decided early on this route to cartwheel his bike down a dune. When Peter,Sarah and Ben  caught up they witnessed "one very daised person with a helmet full of blood". A cut nose and forehead cleaned up okay and a very sore chest from hitting his windshield support bracket.
Meanwhile ahead of this I noticed my reattached saddlebag had become unattached. How far back it had fallen I didn't know. Not to worry Ben, Denis or the back up would find it. So I waited and waited not knowing about Denis's demise. During this time I went over the bike fixing loose items such as the rack, changed the air filter, checked tyre pressures, etc. They finally arrived and not much further on we all regrouped with Matt and Steve.
Denis wanted to buddy up with me from here on. Sure we'll help each other! Guess what? I drop my bike and where is Denis? Gone! No stopping and no looking back. Thanks mate! By the time we arrived at Knolls track at about 5pm everyone was knackered. Ben looked absolutely spent. Helping out as tailman for the day certainly took its toll.
At this point as a group we had to decide whether to proceed along the French Line or go down Knolls track to the Rig road to complete the crossing. With everyone worn out except for Shane we chose the easier option the Rig road. Fourteen kms down Knolls track we found a good camping spot for the night. Matt was extremely thankful as any further and he would off collapsed with exhaustion. Peter dished up another superb meal. Dining like kings and queen again. He also laughed at the sight of a row of lights in darkness around the campfire. Everyone wearing headlamps switched on whilst eating.
Approximately 130kms travelled for the day and still a long way to go.

Day 7, Friday 7th    
My body muscles a bit sore this morning from the previous day's workout. Matt and Steve get going half an hour earlier than us, smart thinking. Shane contemplating riding the French Line alone but reconsiders after we air our thoughts.
The Knolls track is a windy sand track with mild whoops. Our saddlebags were constantly brushing against bushes next to the track as we rode past. My left side bag finally cries enough as the inner side completely breaks away. Thanks Peter for carrying it again. Everyone travelled well today. The clay based Rig road a higher speed affair and the sand on the crests keeping our senses alert. Some downhill sides had deep erosion ruts which were easily avoided. This stretch of road adding a welcome variety to our Simpson crossing riding conditions. Near Purnie Bore some rain had been through generating yellow wildflowers. The bore itself just that,   boring. Only 67kms to Dalhousie Springs and looking forward to the soothing thermal waters. With the 1100 dunes now completed the terrain turned to barren dirt flood plain, gibber rock, short grasses and some small flat topped mountain ranges. The track exhibiting sandy patches which caused a confidence-sapping fall for Matt. That would be his last muck up for the remainder of our travels.
Dalhousie campground was packed with 4wds. We were lucky to find a patch of dirt for the night. A couple of scavenger dingoes roamed the area looking for food scraps. They didn't get any from us.
 Relaxing in the warm spring waters with a cool stubby had to be the best way to end a Simpson crossing it definitely "doesn't get any better than this". The dugong agrees!

Day 8, Saturday 8th
The day started early with a pack of dingoes howling. This area too harsh for a rooster to survive and be the morning wake up call. Besides that all the noise from nearby campers unzipping tents and talking shortened a prolonged sleep in. No rush as the group proclaimed it a full day of rest. After breakfast and a leisurely walk around the springs I was more than happy to leave after lunch for an easy half-day ride down to Oodnadatta. This would assist only being one day behind plans to get home to the family. Matt and Steve had the same thoughts. I advised Shane of  the decision which didn't suit him. He was keen on staying the full day. Guess you can't win them all! After talks with Denis, Shane was persuaded to continue the journey with Ben and him. They were off to Chambers Pillar and the Finke Track to Alice Springs and wherever the prevailing winds took them for the next 10 to 14 days.
Peter and Sarah's plan was to go back the next day the same route as us except they were bypassing the Flinders ranges. Effectively splitting us into 3 separate groups and destinations.
From now on the story follows Steve, Matt and myself.
Exit the camping ground and turn right. No according to Peter, turn left. It didn't feel right and sure enough 5kms up the track we turned around and went in the correct direction. Thanks Peter for your navigational skills! A quick stop at Dalhousie ruins then on through gibber rock country until about 50kms travelled and Steve gets a front tyre puncture caused by a rock. He motioned me to chase Matt who was miles ahead and carrying the spare tube. After 12 to 14kms I catch up to Matt with the news and Steve's need for the tube he was carrying. "I have no spare" he replied, "I used it for my puncture on the second day of the trip". Steve assured us that Ben had given Matt another spare. Someone has stuffed up! Looks like my 21" tube will have to be fitted. We reached the main dirt road to Oodnadatta at Hamilton station late in the day. This stretch had rolling hills/humps that made us lightly airborne at120kmh, good fun!
Stopping at the Pink Roadhouse for fuel we organised a budget room in the caravan park situated behind it. Keys to room 2 were handed over and we ride around to find our accommodation. Finally located it wasn't what we had expected. A tiny room, one of 5 in an Atco portable container. One double bunk and one single bed only 30cms apart and remaining floor/storage space of 800mm by 1metre square. You've got to be kidding! When Steve went to get our money back the girl knowingly asked, "the room too small"? Matt and I checked out the pub. Great rooms with breakfast included and overnight parking in the beer garden. For a Saturday night the patronage at the pub was stuff all and the bar closed at 8pm. They sure like to celebrate in this community! However the meals were great and we were allowed to buy take away beer and drink in the bar or lounge area for as long as we liked. Now that's better! Our first night not camping since Arkaroola was fantastic. Interesting also was toilets fitted inside a round cement water tank built into the rear of the hotel.

Day 9, Sunday 9th
Steve goes to the Pink Roadhouse garage to see if he could buy a replacement 21" tube. Yes they had one at a cost of $25 and a half-hour chat as part of the deal. Steve just couldn't get away from the guy. Mind you from my experience I would say it would have been a 50/50 each way conversation. His advice to avoid punctures was to ride in the loose gravel and sand stretches rather than the clean tracks left by vehicles. The clean tracks had the solidly supported half buried rocks which cause the damage. I think the only buried rocks were between his ears! You try riding for long kms in the loose stuff, besides not seeing what is underneath it.
Easy road travelling south past red dunes, plateau mounds, sand and something different black gibber rock. Our first stop was at Algebuckina railway-bridge. The longest steel bridge in the southern hemisphere which was used by the Old Ghan.
The Oodnadatta follows the Old Ghan railway and you see remnants of this for the entire length of the track.
Stopped at William Creek to have lunch and a look at the many decorations inside. From tee shirts, hats, money, police badges, business cards, graffiti, etc. It was a huge collection at a place in the middle of nowhere. The only water is supplied by bore, and electricity by generator.
Further down the track we checked out Coward Springs another thermal waterhole. This one has only enough room for 6 people at a time to bath.
Peter advised us to stop at the Lake Eyre South lookout and walk out to the dry salt bed. We walked about one km through dunes over the abandoned Ghan railway track and were still a long way from the salt. It didn't seem to get any closer, similar to chasing a mirage. We gave up deciding that the effort wasn't worth it.
Later a brief look at Planehenge ( two planes planted upright with their tails in the ground ) and on the road an old guy travelling with a camel drawn cart which he lives out off. Marree at the junction of the Oodnadatta and Birdsville tracks has three Old Ghan locomotives to look at then our day trip ended at Lyndhurst pub, 488kms travelled. The bar was very quiet. The only people dropping in were truck drivers heading to or from the Moomba oil and gas fields.

Day 10, Monday 10th    
The scenery today was superb. Rolling hills and rocky mountains of the Gammon Ranges from Mt Serle to Idninna homestead ruins and out onto the main Arkaroola road just south of the village. The DR's rear suspension damping had faded during the later part of this track. I noticed it on the main road going through floodways bouncing out the other side. Once it cooled down it came good again. Blinman in the North Flinders Ranges was the scheduled lunch and fuel stop. We ate but the fuel bowsers were closed down. A resort 15kms out of town was the closest fuel available. From here we travelled through Parachilna Gorge then south on the main road with great views of the ranges on our left. Straight back into the Flinders Ranges National Park we rode through the sensational Brachina Gorge with the late afternoon sun highlighting the red colours of the mountains. Does it get any better than this? Very late in the day we arrived at Wilpena Pound. Having already overdosed on stunning scenery and not looking forward to the walk in we decided to give it a miss. Gives us another excuse to go back in the future. From here the roads are bitumen all the way home. This was the end of the journeys dirt tracks which started at Renmark approximately 3120kms ago. With only half an hours ride left we made it to Hawker to enjoy another comfortable night stay. The days ride distance 470kms.

Day 11, Tuesday 11th    
Leaving Hawker at 9am we arrived at Ouyen near 6pm, a distance of 660kms.
 Matt suffered another flat front tyre coming into Orroroo. The tube had worn where the tyre sidewall bulge was from the first puncture on day 2 of the trip. Would the tyre make it back to Melbourne? As it had grown to the size of one third of a fist. A new tube fitted and the journey continued. The countryside now totally different to what we had experienced for the last nine days. Bare rolling hills and paddocks all the way to Petersborough. The bitumen road out was coloured green for 10 to 20kms. Wheat paddocks to Burra then all saltbush to Morgan. I noticed all the South Australian towns had slogans on their name signs. One of them population 70 listed " Heart of the Hills " and another " Hub of the Flinders". From Morgan we rode along the road north of the Murray River all the way to Renmark. This area littered with vineyards. Then we traversed the road that runs parallel and south of the Sturt Hwy to join the Calder Hwy near Red Cliffs and finally to Ouyen. We stayed at the pub which must have been busy in its heyday. Our room one of 50 in this grand old establishment.

Day 12, Wednesday 12th
Left Ouyen at 7.15am, the earliest start for the whole trip. Not a good choice as the temperature was near zero. Just when you need the grip hand warmers they decided not to work. The fingertips were a bit frozen by the time we stopped at Birchip 130kms later.
Matts Metzeler Karoo front tyre bulge getting bigger. It was starting to bulge at the tread so we lowered the pressure to 23psi and maximum speed to 110kmh. We bypassed Bendigo via Bridgewater, Maldon and Castlemaine and stopped at Keilor McDonalds effectively ending the trip from where we started. Home by 2.45pm and 467kms travelled.
What a fantastic experience!


The Adventurers
Ben "Bugle arse" Callow            BMW1200GS
Steve "As good as it gets" Enticott         BMW1200GS
Matt "I'm f…ed" Edge    BMW1200GS
Shane "Willnot" Roberts DR650
Denis "Cartwheel" Kelly DR650
Mark "Vic or SA time" Salter DR650
Peter "Chef de mission" Noble Nissan Navara
Sarah "Tough chick for tough times" Callow  Nissan Navara  




Bits and Pieces  
"After 30 days the camels start to look pretty good!"
"Hard men for hard times!"
"I'm not here to baby-sit!"
"I've lost my wallet!"
"I've lost my windcheater!"
"I've lost my ….!"
"The serenity!"
"This is as good as it gets!"
Ask Shane about a willnot.
On one Simpson 60km stretch the Beemers travelled an extra 6kms.The DR speedo runs off the front wheel and the Beemers off the gearbox (rear wheel). Do I detect wheelspin?
Shane proved that consumption of prune juice leads to dire consequences for other people. We had to abandon the warm campfire.
On the first day of the Simpson crossing Matt drank 5 litres of water to our average of 1 litre.
That 35 to 40kgs extra load on the rear of motorbikes makes rough sand riding difficult
We saw no other motorbikes for the entire Simpson crossing. Plenty of 4wd's.
A guy in a big Hummer stated he was on his 14th crossing." Was that because the other 13 times were unsuccessful?" we pondered.
Noticed a fair number of 4wd's with broken rear windows.
Birdsville fuel cost $1.59 per litre, Oodnadatta was $1.72, Melbourne $1.40
Steve was obsessed with collecting small milk satchels for his morning coffee until they started to break and leak where he stored them, in his rear jacket pocket.
Great sunny weather everyday except for the first.
We saw 5 or 6 wedge-tail eagles all snacking on animal carcasses.
Did not see any wild camels.
Total journey distance 5150kms.
Big BMW1200's can go places you never thought possible.
Lighter DR650's with 32 litre tanks were the better choice. Who knows? Different situations different advantages.


Words can not describe the personal experience and feel one gets on this outback adventure. If you get a chance don't miss out, it truly is amazing!

Ps I wrote this as a diarised memory of the trip for the participants and myself. Sorry if the reading is a bit long and boring.

Mark Salter